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Maintenance Tips
From Jim Shepard,
Your Guide to Powerboating.
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In the Water Maintenance and Care
Most of you, I’m sure, either have your boat in the water or all set to go on a trailer. However, there may be some tardy exceptions, like yours truly, but that’s another story. As I have said before, the only thing that your boat will do all by itself, without any help from you, is SINK! So, everything else aboard needs your constant attention and care. I once considered writing the world’s shortest boat maintenance manual. The entire content consisted of "If something moves on your boat that shouldn’t, use Duct Tape™. If something doesn’t move that should, use W-D 40™." Being old and prone to napping, I wish that my "manual" was the answer, but all of us serious boaters realize it "just ain’t so." With that fact in mind, let’s make a list of things that must be checked on a weekly basis, even if the boat’s just sitting there in her slip. Most of the list should be done daily if you’re out cruising.
1. Washing: Wash and chamois down your boat at least once a week, if not more. Dirt and grime are collecting on your boat even as you read this article. The dirt gets ground into the deck as you and your crew walk aboard. What does not get ground in, runs down the sides of your boat when it rains and makes those dreaded black streaks. I, personally, am convinced that the sea gulls and martins at my marina have designated the B.O.B. (Big Old Boat) as their official bombing range.
2. Dock lines: Check your dock lines and fenders at least once a week (every day if possible). Most summertime dock boys and girls don’t know an after bow spring line from a stern line and think that you left that fender floating in the water just to test its buoyancy. Check your lines for chafing and other signs of wear. According to the insurance industry, most insurance claims are not for damages sustained at sea. Most claims are for damage done while the boat is moored in its own slip!
3. Thru Hull Fittings: Check all thru hull fittings, seacocks, hoses and clamps. If you have an inboard propulsion system, check the stuffing box(es) for excessive dripping.
4. Run you engines: Start your engines and run them up to operating temperature. If you are in an area where Zebra Muscles or other invasive species are a problem, the hot water discharge will get rid of those little trouble makers.
5. Generator: If you have an A.C. power generator, run it for at least an hour under a heavy load (i.e. turn on the air conditioner, fridge, heat, lights, etc.).
6. Navigation Lights: Turn on the navigation lights, then walk around your boat and make sure they are all working. Port (red), Starboard (green), Masthead (white light facing forward) and Stern light (white light facing aft). Also, while you’re at it, make sure your horn works.
7. Bilge Pump: Make sure your bilge pump(s) is (are) working and is(are) free of any debris.
8. Batteries: Check your batteries. In my opinion, any voltage below 13 volts DC is suspect (I use a volt meter). If the batteries are the usual lead, acid flooded type, then check the fluid level of each cell and top off with distilled water only!
9. Oil: Before operating any engine on your boat, be sure to check the oil level. If you are using the boat every day, then it becomes an every day procedure!
10. Electronics: Turn on all your electronic navigation devices such as VHF radio, depth sounder, GPS, radar, etc. to make sure nothing has gone "haywire" since they were last used.
Finally, going back to my short maintenance manual, make sure that everything on your boat that is supposed to move, like valves, switches, latches, ports, hatches and all things mechanical, are tested at least once a month to make sure that they are not "frozen up" and won’t move when you really need them to work.
Gee, even though I’m miles away from my boat, I think I just heard something fall off the old girl. Oh, well!
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